Until recently, I’ve
thought, I don’t yet have enough personal experience with or knowledge of the
French health care system to write
about it with any real insight.
Six weeks ago, that
changed. At least the personal experience part.
It’s funny — at just that
same time I was learning about the disastrous US health care bill, and grasping
how vulnerable we are. I mean, if we were to return to the States tomorrow, without
jobs or other connection to the system, we’d be … screwed. If I got sick, even
something mild, say; if The Frenchman needed a checkup, which is inevitable; if
god forbid le petit garçon has a toothache or BREAKS HIS ARM … well, you can
see where this is going, can’t you?
OK, I’ll set down my
coffee for a moment and proceed with my point.
I am not unaware that we
are fortunate, here, to at least have access. Simple, basic access and a flat
fee each time we visit the doctor. Ninety bucks a month for additional
insurance. Affordable. Reasonable.
All this, as it turned
out, was necessary six weeks ago when, out of the blue, Life enrolled us in a
crash course whose syllabus included: emergency room, expectation, disappointment,
kindness, a grammar lesson, appreciation, and more kindness.
After an afternoon of playing
with a dear friend who was returning home after a year in Toulouse, le petit
garçon and I headed home, he riding his new hand-me-down trottinette, or scooter. We’d gone not twenty yards meters,
when his wheel caught the edge of a sidewalk under repair and down he went.
When I picked him up, his
cry told me that this was a different pain than usual. We sat on the sidewalk
for a moment, him in my lap in tears, checking to see what could move and what
couldn’t. I uttered my phrase du moment:
What the fuck? What now? Do I have to
call an ambulance, and if so how? Who do I know with a car? Where is the
emergency room, the nearest hospital? Why did it not occur to me to just call a
cab, as someone later suggested?
Fortunately, Grace landed
him about two doors down from a doctor. Who wasn’t in at the moment, it was
lunchtime, natch; but we called to see if she had any appointments. The minute
he heard that we might go to a doctor — I
just want to go home and go to sleep — le petit garçon began to wail.
Making an already-challenging interaction infinitely more difficult. I’m trying
to explain what happened, and convey specific details like my phone number
which starts zerosixquatrevingtdixneufquatrevingtdixhuit,
and then figure out what time she’s available. Did she say fourteen or sixteen?
Or fifteen?
I’ve a six-year-old yowling
in one ear, and in the other: Non madame —
quinze heure vingt, IN ONE HOUR! Like I am a complete idiot. OK, I can roll
with this one, I think, because the bigger battle is this one in my arms. So I
take it.
Sitting on the sidewalk,
I marvel momentarily that the stars aligned just-so to take care of us. Doctor
is available soon. Damage doesn’t appear to be life-threatening. Friends might
still be at home. A pause for Thank Yous.
gratuitous adorableness for visual pause, by Shamma Esoof and thanks to My Modern Met |
Though their train leaves
in less than two hours our friends are still at home so we return to their
apartment to wait. Their final moments in Toulouse, and le petit garçon is too
exhausted to take interest. When he turns down a crêpe with Nutella, I know
it’s serious. We cuddle, hard, as Molly would say.
An hour later, the doctor,
after administering some blessed Dolipran to ease the pain, nods to me knowingly:
Go to the Urgence.
And so, clearly, today will not contain
anything close to what we’d planned or expected. I thought of Venus Williams at
her post-match press conference the day before: “Life, you can't prepare for everything. I prepared for a lot of
matches, tried to get ready for whatever my opponent will throw at you, but you
can't prepare for everything. I have no idea what tomorrow will bring. That's
all I can say about it. That's what I've learned."
I had no idea how to get to
the Urgence, with our maybe-broken
arm and my three bags and basil plant and the offending trottinette and my bicycle.
But we made a plan, and we set out, slowly and gently, to the tram.
We board, find a seat, and
exhale audibly. I am so consumed with calling The Frenchman and ushering le
petit garçon to a seat safely and managing my bags and wiping tears, I forget
to buy a ticket. And lo, this turns out to be the one day that the tram officer
gets on to check that everyone has theirs, something I’ve never, ever seen
happen before.
He brusquely asks for ours.
I scan my brain. “Monsieur,” I begin,
with a pleading note in my voice, I’m
sorry. My son may have just broken his arm and I’m taking him to the Urgence
and we didn’t get our ticket yet. I dig in my bag as he hovers over us, as
if I’m going to find something there? His not-very-good mood is palpable.
Can you
move your fingers? he asks gruffly.
Le petit garçon wiggles
them.
It’s not
broken, he confidently diagnoses, and exits the train, leaving us
hanging, mouths agape.
As the train pulls away
it starts pouring rain outside. It subsides eight stops later as we pull up to
the Urgence Enfants. Inside, everyone’s
so kind and sweet with this kid who is clearly overwhelmed by injured children,
crying babies, activity, wondering what this is all about. The intake nurse has
just the right words for him, the doctor is amiable, the x-ray technicians manage
the menacing machines with grace and good humor.
We wait for the results. C’est cassé, the doctor pronounces
abruptly. Broken.
And so commences another
wailing-and-crying period so melodramatic I can barely make out a word the
doctor’s saying. By that point I am exhausted, I’ve done this whole thing in
French, I am one to ask questions and seek details but I can’t really do it
anymore. I neglected to tell this doctor that I’m not French, please speak
slowly, and it’s not his fault of course that I can’t catch half of what he’s
rattling off to us. But I’m oversaturated.
In short order he’s mixed
up a batch of plaster and has started to put on the cast, my child awash in
tears, and over the noise he’s telling me something about four weeks, come
back, can’t get wet, somethingsomething.
This isn’t how I wanted
my thirteenth blog post to unfold, but there it is, Life delivering its lesson
on its own timeline.
Commando by Sophie Gamand, thanks to My Modern Met. |
Fast-forward, as they
say, to six weeks and two days later.
The word plâtre has become part of my daily
vocabulary. I find it a lovely word to write, the same way I like to write
“pâte” or ‘fête’. Did you know that the little hat marks the former presence of
a no-longer-pronounced consonant, most often S? You can imagine words like plaster, meaning in this case plaster
cast, and fest, and host and pasta and their French counterparts, whose accent circonflexe pays tribute to an S which used to be there. Arrêter
= arreste! Ancêtre = ancestor! Hôpital! Forêt! I am in love with this petit chapeau.
seeking solace from a bird of a feather |
We were told it would be
on for four weeks, so the hospital set up a return rendezvous, ostensibly for a
final x-ray and cast removal. But since we were traveling to Normandy we
cancelled, and booked our appointment instead at the children’s hospital in
Caen. We kept a calendar, marking off every day which brought us closer to the
four-week mark signaling freedom.
However, Life once again
intervened: we arrived, prepared for success, and discovered that this hospital
insisted on a strict six weeks for casts, no discussion.
Fair enough, was my
thinking; better fully-healed than sorry. But of course upon hearing this le petit
garçon melted. They were all so kind, and talked with him so directly and with
genuine concern, my heart was full and breaking at the same time. All I felt I
could do was empathize, and say that this, sweet heart, is disappointment in action. I get it too.
We looked sadly at the
beach gear we’d piled in the back of the car in anticipation of racing directly
from the hospital into the water. We bought a new pair of soccer cleats to
cheer us up, and ate ice cream. We found a king-size plastic glove at the
pharmacy so we could still play at the beach and build sandcastles and dip our
toes in the water without hesitation. We managed.
Back at home, after a
safe six-plus-that-felt-like-sixty weeks have passed, we’ve an appointment to
remove the plâtre. But this time, I’m
not banking on anything. I tamper our excitement with regular reality checks.
The likelihood is that it will not work out as we think, or hope, or expect. Maybe
they’ll be on strike. Or holiday. Or will have lost our reservation. You never
know.
But we arrive at the
Clinique Rive Gauche, and the secretary has his name on the schedule, and we
find the office.
Have a seat, they say.
X-ray first, and then we’ll remove the
cast.
Remove?? I allow a sliver
of excitement in.
farewell, “friend” |
The doctor’s cheerful and
friendly. Looks good, he says. Let’s take it off. We sit stunned for a
moment. Can this be true, at last? Can he be serious? C’mon, he says, let’s go do it.
He takes us into his
little room and turns on a machine, some kind of electric pizza cutter,
whzzzzz.
Twenty minutes later it’s
off, and he assigns le petit garçon five séances of kinestherapy, and reassures
us that it’ll be a little tender and the muscles will take time to find
themselves again but it’s fully healed and should be fine.
Over the next few days we
talk about how strange it feels, and he suggests that maybe it’s a good thing
it happened, that his bones will be stronger. We see the bright side. We talk
about appreciating what we have, how easy it is to take full use of two arms,
this body, for granted. We savor washing both hands really well. Sand in our
fingers; getting dressed unaided; bike-riding; opening things. More thank-yous.
In France, it’s been so much about managing
expectations. Lowering them, I should say, if not eliminating them entirely. You
go out, you start off down the street, you think you’ll make it to the end of
the block. Mais non, Madame! Prepare,
plan even okay; but then toss the ball up and just see where it lands. Could a
person live a whole life free of disappointment, if she managed her
expectations instead, and stopped mistaking thoughts for reality? Mm. Let’s see
if we can find out.
courage, everyone |